The Shady Baker takes a trip down the Murray River and shares four new mouth-watering recipes

There is a slight bump and a feeling of relief as the car leaves the dirt road and hits the bitumen. The landscape changes slightly from scrub, dry grass and grazing land to cropped paddocks with large farming machinery operating in neat circles. Only a few kilometres further, and the landscape changes again to endless rows of lush green citrus trees and grapevines that immediately make you realise you have left the Outback. This is how my arrival in the Mildura region, in the far north-western corner of Victoria, has always felt since I was a child.

Mildura sits on the edge of the Murray River, and the sight of the enormous expanse of water as you cross the bridge from New South Wales into Victoria is always a welcome one. I always feel like it is such an escape coming to this town of tree-lined streets, expanses of bright green lawns and water views as it’s such a contrast to my home town of Broken Hill.

Another attraction for me is the strong food, wine and café culture. One of my favourite things is to visit reliable venues that have been operating for many years as well as any new places popping up around the leafy streets. Shady grapevines growing on the fronts of bars, cafés and restaurants are an iconic part of the local streetscape. Taking a stroll around the lanes, shops, heritage buildings and viewing the gardens, street art and the river is a must.

If I can, I like to time my visits to coincide with the Sunraysia Farmers’ Market, held on the first and third Saturday of each month, plus some special occasions. On offer is a selection of high-quality local produce, coffee and a wholesome breakfast served on the banks of the Murray.

I created the recipes on the following pages by taking inspiration from the abundant fruits available at the farmers’ market and around the region.

The Shady Baker chats to Graziher’s Life on the Land podcast about her life on a sheep station east of Broken Hill and her love of cooking for her family.

On my recent trip to Mildura, I also visited these creative businesswomen who add vibrancy to the community:

Hannah Beasy, Nash Lane

Hannah and her husband Jack opened the doors to Nash Lane on Tenth Street in 2016 and have been busily serving delicious coffee and food ever since. A full-cream flat white is their most popular coffee order and they proudly use unhomogenised, biodynamic milk. I love to have a slice of banana bread when I visit and I’ve included the recipe on the next page — it’s delicious!

Hannah and Jack believe that the heart of their business is facilitating human connection and providing genuine care to every person who passes through the café doors. Whenever someone walks through the doors at Nash Lane they want them to leave feeling happier, connected, valued and inspired.

Hannah appreciates the distinct seasons in Mildura: warm summer nights, autumn foliage, moody winter frosts and spring blooms.

163–165 Tenth Street, Mildura, Vic

Renae Pennicuik, The Studio

I discovered Renae’s bright studio and gallery almost by accident and have been admiring her earthy ceramics and using them in my kitchen and food photography ever since.

Renae fell in love with ceramics while studying for a diploma of visual art after high school. This talented ceramicist and sculptor opened The Studio in 2021, but has been teaching for over 20 years.

37–39 Jacaranda Street, Red Cliffs, Vic

Maree Hankinson, Curly Tree

Set back from the Darling River, Curly Tree is a colourful wonderland of homewares that will simply bring you joy. Maree and her husband Howard opened Curly Tree as a bricks-and-mortar store in December 2015. They have a strong connection to the historical town of Wentworth, working hard to preserve heritage buildings in their street.

47 Darling Street, Wentworth, NSW

HONEY-ROASTED FIGS ON FRENCH TOAST

I bought these ripe figs, served on a simple paper plate, from a regular stall holder at the Sunraysia Farmers’ Market.

Serves 2–4

6-8 fresh figs

3 tablespoons butter

¼ cup honey

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Fresh honeycomb and thick cream, optional, to serve

FRENCH TOAST

3 eggs, lightly whisked

150ml milk

40g butter

4 thick slices of sturdy sourdough bread

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C. Cut a cross on the top of each fig. Using the flat blade of the knife,  gently push the fig open into a star shape.

2. Put the figs in a baking dish and top each fig with a chunk of butter. Drizzle with honey and sprinkle with cinnamon.

3. Roast for 10 minutes or until the fruit has softened and the butter and honey have melted completely. Set aside until ready to serve.

4. To make the French toast, whisk the egg and milk together in wide, shallow bowl.

5. Heat a non-stick frying pan over medium heat and melt a little butter in the pan.

6. Dip a slice of bread into the egg mixture, coating it on both sides. Place in the pan and fry on each side until golden. Repeat with remaining bread slices, adding butter to the pan as necessary.

7. Top the toast with roasted figs. Drizzle with any remaining butter, honey and fig juices from the bottom of the baking dish. Serve with honeycomb and cream.

CITRUS TART

Fresh, tangy citrus is available at roadside stalls when in season and you can even visit Orange World near Mourquong, NSW — look for the giant orange!

Serves 6–8

2 oranges, zest finely grated, 150ml juice

50ml freshly squeezed lemon juice

100g butter, cut into small pieces

200g caster sugar

2 eggs plus 2 egg yolks, at room temperature

Thick cream, optional, to serve

PASTRY

12/3 cups (250g) plain flour

120g chilled butter, cut into cubes

1 teaspoon caster sugar

1. Lightly spray a 25cm loose-bottomed tart tin with cooking spray. Set aside.

2. To make the pastry, put the flour, butter and sugar in a bowl with a pinch of salt. Using your fingertips, rub the butter into the flour until most of the butter is incorporated into the flour.

3. Gradually add 1/4 cup (60ml) cold water to the mixture and continue mixing with your hands until you get a smooth dough (you may not need all of the water). Tip the dough out onto a clean work surface and bring it together to form a ball.

4. Using a rolling pin, roll the pastry out between two large pieces of baking paper until it is 2–3mm thick. If the pastry is too soft to handle at this stage, put it in the refrigerator for 20 minutes or until it is cool and firm.

5. Line the tart tin with the pastry, trim the edges and prick the base with a fork. Put the pastry case into the refrigerator for 30 minutes. This will help the pastry to stay in shape when baked. Preheat the oven to 180°C.

6. Remove the tart tin from the refrigerator. Line the pastry with foil and fill with uncooked rice or baking weights. Bake for 15 minutes, remove the foil and weights and bake for a further 10 minutes or until the pastry is light golden. Set aside to cool slightly while you make the filling.

7. To make the filling, combine the orange zest, 150ml of the orange juice, the lemon juice, butter and sugar in a heatproof bowl. Place the bowl over a saucepan of gently simmering water. The bowl should fit snugly without touching the water.
Stir until the butter has just started to melt: the temperature should be less than 40°C on a cooking thermometer.

8. Meanwhile, whisk the eggs and egg yolks in a small bowl. Carefully add the egg to the bowl and whisk until well combined. Continue to cook in the bowl over the gently simmering water for 7–8 minutes, scraping down the sides occasionally with a spatula and whisking regularly. The mixture is cooked when it is thick and glossy or the temperature reaches 80°C on a cooking thermometer. Remove the bowl from the saucepan and set aside to cool.

9. Pour the cooled filling into the pastry shell and bake for 30 minutes or until the filling is just set. Cool to room temperature, then in the refrigerator until completely set. Cut into wedges and serve with thick cream, if using.

Note: You can make the filling up to 3 days in advance, and store it in an airtight container in the fridge until needed.

NASH LANE BANANA BREAD

Hannah and Jack Beasy from Nash Lane kindly shared this recipe with me. It has been a favourite at the café since the doors opened in the early days and is gluten- and dairy-free.

Serves 8–10

4 eggs, lightly whisked, at room temperature

½ cup (125ml) olive oil

½ cup (160g) honey

½ cup (75g) coconut flour

½ cup (70g) buckwheat flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

3 overripe bananas, mashed

2 tablespoons shredded coconut, for topping

Butter, optional, to serve

1. Preheat the oven to 160°C. Line a 27cm x 15cm loaf tin with baking paper.

2. Stir the egg, oil and honey in a large bowl until combined. Add the flours, baking powder, bicarb soda and cinnamon and stir until smooth.

4. Add the banana and stir until smooth.

5. Pour the mixture into the loaf tin and sprinkle with shredded coconut.

6. Bake for 60 minutes until golden brown and a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean.

7. Cool in the tin for 10 minutes, then turn onto a wire rack to cool completely. Slice and serve fresh or lightly toasted with butter, if using.

CHOCOLATE CITRUS MUFFINS

The Mildura region is home to several olive oil producers and a significant number of citrus growers.

Makes 12 muffins

½ cup (125ml) milk

1 cup (220g) caster sugar

¾ cup (180ml) olive oil

3 eggs, at room temperature

¾ cup (75g) cocoa powder

1¼ cups (185g) plain flour

1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda

3-4 dried citrus, chopped into small pieces (including the peel), plus
extra slices to serve (optional)

Thick cream, optional, to serve

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line a 12-hole muffin tin with paper cases.

2. Mix the milk, sugar, oil and eggs in a large bowl until well combined. Sift in the cocoa, flour, bicarb soda and a pinch of salt. Stir until smooth. Add the dried citrus.

3. Spoon ¼ cup of batter into each muffin case. and bake for 25–30 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre of a muffin comes out clean.

4. Remove muffins from the tin and cool on a wire rack. Serve plain or with cream and dried citrus slices, if using.

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